Why Studio Ecru chooses the 23-season color analysis system

Classic color analysis is often presented in terms of seasons—Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter—then expanded into 12, 16, or even 23 sub-variations.Is one system better than the others—and if so, which one?

Shared foundations — different analytical frameworks

The 12-season, 16-season, and 23-season systems all rest on the same core principle: color interacts with the face according to personal characteristics such as temperature, clarity, depth, and contrast.

The objective is always the same: to identify the colors that harmonize most naturally with an individual by observing their effects on the skin, eyes, hair, and overall contrast.

Each system, however, organizes and interprets this information differently. The analytical logic—the “algorithm” of the approach—is subtly but meaningfully distinct.

When similar palettes produce different results

It is often said that most people do not immediately perceive the differences between palettes produced by these systems. To some extent, that is true.

At first glance, several palettes may appear very similar. In practice, however, they produce noticeably different effects on facial luminosity. Subtle variations in clarity, contrast, or depth influence how a color integrates with the whole—depending on lighting conditions, makeup, or clothing.

These nuances explain why certain palettes work more consistently, more naturally, and more coherently over time than others. They also explain why a color may suit someone well one day, yet feel less flattering the next.

A professional color analysis relies on repeated observation of how the face reacts to color, in order to identify harmonies that are reliable and durable. We look for clear, reproducible results—through an approach that is almost algorithmic, even mathematical. (I am a physician, after all.)

For this reason, at Studio Écru, we use the 23-season system for the level of precision it provides, allowing us to refine our assessment as much as possible and ensure the long-term quality and consistency of our recommendations.

The 16-season system: when the season is sufficient

The 16-season system structures harmony around four main seasonal families—Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter—each subdivided into sub-seasons.

Within this framework:

• Light, Soft, Deep, and Bright refine an existing season

• The season remains the primary reference

• Harmony is explained through membership in a seasonal family

  
  

This approach is effective when temperature and season are clearly defined. It provides clear, widely recognized reference points that are easy to understand and apply.

When a quality matters more than the season

The 23-season system follows a different logic.

Rather than treating Light, Soft, Deep, and Bright as simple adjustments, it recognizes them as autonomous harmonies in their own right.

Intensity measurement during a color analysis consultation

This approach is based on a simple observation: some faces respond primarily to a dominant chromatic quality, independent of traditional seasonal boundaries. The tone does not necessarily need to be warmer or cooler—it often tends toward neutrality.

When this dominant quality is respected, it becomes the guiding thread for color choices and brings a sense of coherence that is often felt immediately.

Why greater precision genuinely improves the experience

For many people, the differences between certain palettes may seem subtle. Some may not even see the difference. however, these nuances explain very concrete situations: colors that work well in one context but not in another; garments that are technically “correct” yet unflattering; or palettes that are difficult to apply consistently.

The 23-season system allows these discrepancies to be identified and compromises to be reduced, by prioritizing what reliably supports the face. The attention to detail is genuinely worthwhile. That said, the results can always be simplified for the client if needed—but in our view, color analysis should always be as accurate as possible at its core and I would rather make the task slightly longer or more complex but be sure about the results we obtain together.

Expert analysis, translated into simple reference points

At Studio Écru, precision is not our only priority. Relevance and ease of application matter just as much.

Even though the analysis is based on the 23-season system, the outcome is always:

• explained clearly using simple, concrete reference points;

• delivered in a report with easy-to-use color swatches;

• accompanied, when relevant and desired, by an equivalent interpretation within the 16-season system.

  
  

You leave with a palette you understand—and actually use in everyday life, for clothing, accessories, and makeup choices.

Our approach

In conclusion, the 12-, 16-, and 23-season systems all rely on the same principles, but structure analysis according to different logics.

Despite its greater complexity, I consistently choose the 23-season system for the precision it offers in personal color analysis. I then translate that precision into clear, coherent, and easy-to-apply recommendations, so that the results are as accurate, meaningful, and useful as possible over the long term.